Tanna Island… where everyone knows everyone. Where the words of the chiefs still hold weight to this day. Where smoke rises from village kitchens in the evenings. Where post-sunset socialization happens at the kava bars – but only for the men. Where traveling in the back of pickups is the normal form of transportation. Departing from there, volcanic ash lingered on our belongings for days. Tanna: the island that we could talk about for hours.
This island is located in the southern part of Vanuatu and is an incredibly unique place. It is home to the famous and very active Yasur volcano, but beyond that, there are numerous activities awaiting visitors. However, don’t expect luxury unless you book accommodation in one of the few high-end resorts.
We spent five days here and gained a variety of experiences.
Preparing for Tanna
Beyond practical matters, my most useful advice is to let go of your expectations and don’t plan too much. This place is very different from anywhere else we’ve been. You’ll only be able to fully embrace and enjoy it if you arrive without expectations and go with the flow a bit. As Tanna is a very small place, traveling here requires some preparation. You’re likely traveling from Port Vila, which is an ideal place for shopping and getting ready.
Here are some things to keep in mind:
Cash is king: Make sure you have enough cash with you. It’s better to have more than you estimate because this is the most widely accepted form of payment. While there is an ATM in Lenakel, it’s not guaranteed that you can visit it, or there is money in it.
Mosquito repellent and long, loose clothing: Vanuatu is a malaria-infected country, and the level of infection can vary from island to island. The recommended mosquito repellent is the 40% DEET variety. Taking malaria medication is at the discretion of each individual. While accommodations usually have mosquito nets over the beds, there may be holes. It’s advisable to wear long, light-colored, loose clothing.
Hand sanitizer/soap: Unfortunately, there was a place where soap was not provided for the communal bathroom and handwashing. To maintain hygiene, carry hand sanitizer and soap with you.
Snacks: Most accommodations offer breakfast, and you can order lunch and dinner. Based on our experience, you can expect local flavors and generous portions. (If you prefer a bit of luxury, resorts like Whitegrass Resort offer dinner even if you’re not staying there.) However, outside of main meals, don’t expect much else, so it’s recommended to bring some snacks. If you follow a special diet, it’s even more advisable to stock up in Port Vila.
Lockable box: If you want to keep the food you brought (and other fragrant items like soap, shampoo) safe from ants and rodents, always keep them in a lockable box. Fortunately, we didn’t encounter rat problems, but we’ve heard enough about it from others. Hungry rodents can smell and chew on anything that seems and smells edible.
Snorkeling gear, reef shoes: Accommodations may not necessarily provide these or only at an extra cost. If you want to snorkel for sure, pack your own gear.
Headlamp: Accommodations near the volcano may not have electricity at night, so there’s no lighting. A headlamp comes in handy in these places in the evening. Of course, it’s also useful at the top of the volcano to find the path in the dark.
Accomodation
We booked accommodations through booking.com or in person.
On the western coast, north of the airport, there are a few simpler accommodations offering bungalows and 1-2 high-end resorts. We booked at Rocky Ridge Bungalows, located about 3 kilometers north of the airport. After arriving at the smallest and simplest airport we’ve ever been to, we set out on foot along a dusty road under the blazing sun. We received a basic bungalow with a bathroom and a small balcony.
It suited our purpose perfectly; a mosquito net was hung over the bed, and incense was provided to ward off mosquitoes. We did encounter cockroaches in the bathroom, and occasionally, the chirping of birds could be heard from the thatched roof, but that’s just the way it is. The beautiful Whitegrass Resort, owned by Australians, was a few minutes’ walk from our bungalow, so we strolled over for happy hour cocktails and dinner on two evenings.
You can read more about our treehouse accommodation near the volcano here.
Most of these small accommodations are run by local families who have other sources of income besides this, so they may not always pay close attention to bookings (internet connectivity can be inconsistent), or there might not be anyone on-site to check you in, or the room may not be prepared. Eventually, the hosts will appear, and everything will be sorted out.
Lenakel
The only town on Tanna is Lenakel. It may not offer much, but it’s a practical stop if you need to shop. It consists of just a few streets and has a central market as well as a relatively well-equipped small supermarket. We bought fresh baguettes and canned goods here several times when we didn’t want to order lunch at our accommodation. At the market, we also found fresh coconuts for a small fee, which is definitely worth trying.
Transportation
There is no public transportation on Tanna. There is only one section of asphalt road, and the rest of the island has dirt roads, often in very poor condition. We mainly saw 4×4 off-road vehicles, pickups, and a few minibusses on the island. Those without a car hitchhike; since everyone knows everyone, people are willing to give rides to others.
For longer distances, some small change is usually given for the ride. For shorter distances, tourists are often picked up, and we traveled this way multiple times. However, for longer distances like Lenakel-Yasur, it’s not just a matter of offering small change. Gas is expensive, and occasionally, it’s had to come by.
Any accommodation can arrange transportation, but it’s worth asking in advance. From the western side to Yasur in November 2023, we were taken for 2500 vt/person.
Things to do in Tanna
Village visits
There are several traditional villages on the island where people still live according to ancient traditions (or at least they claim to; we’re never 100% certain about these assertions), showcasing this way of life to visitors. The most famous of these villages is Yakel, as both the village and its inhabitants were featured in the beautiful, award-winning film titled “Tanna.”
We aimed for the village of Lowiniou because our host is related to the village chief.
We gained insight into various medicinal plants used by the tribe and explored the traditional kitchen, where we tasted laplap for the first time (Vanuatu’s national dish: grated cassava, coconut milk, green leafy vegetables are combined, wrapped in leaves, and then baked under heated stones). According to tradition, only women are allowed in the kitchen.
They demonstrated the fire-making technique and held an impromptu kava ceremony. Traditionally, only men can consume kava, but they make exceptions for foreigners. Following this, there was some dancing and singing, photo-taking, and we even got to try the village’s giant swing.
Blue Hole
In front of the Rocky Ridge ocean-facing bungalows, there is a large blue hole directly situated. This is a significant depression surrounded by vertical walls in the coral reef, making it an excellent spot for snorkeling due to the coral-covered walls and tropical fish. During low tide, it can be reached on foot from the shore, but reef shoes are highly recommended because of the sharp rocks and corals.
Blue Cave
This time, we skipped this, so I don’t have personal experience with it. It’s about a cave accessible only by boat, filled with water and sunlight shining through its top. Swimming and snorkeling are possible. There are beautiful pictures of it on the internet.
Tanna Coffee
Tanna Coffee collects coffee beans from local producers, which are then processed on the island. You can find their coffee in several cafes and stores, and they even have a café in Port Vila. The Tanna Coffee roastery is located between the airport and Lenakel, here.
Yasur
The highlight of our visit to Tanna Island was undoubtedly the Yasur volcano. We had been to volcanically active places before, but had never seen lava until now. At the same time, this was also the most expensive attraction among all, but it was an unforgettable experience. You can read a detailed description of the Yasur volcano and the activities available there in this post.
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